Ps3 slim bricked tristate method not working
 

hi i seem to have bricked my ps3 and its mimicking the ylod but its not the real ylod i cant get the ps3 to stay on with the tristate solider method and its not overheating so dont bother suggesting that. ps3 led is as follows Solid RED>Solid Green>Yellow>3beeps flashing red
normally ylod but seeing this happen after a flash completed i dont think its really a ylod im not sure what to do now.
i have e3 flasher limited

What board do you have? Are you positive you got the Nor tristate? Don't get mad, just trying to get all the facts.

oops sorry forgot to put that lol..
the model ps3 is cech-2001b
the board is DYN-001
yes its the tristate i soldered

I have the same problem with a chechl01 fat console. I keep playing with it but still get the ylod. I have 3 real ylod and the emergency fan mode doesn't work on them but it does on this brick ylod. I don't know if that is a way to tell whether or not it is a real ylod or not, but it is at least a crazy coincidence. Try it.
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It won't stay booted either with tristate solder

so
1. you have just downgraded
2. it is (solid red) (solid green) (quick yellow i take it) (3 beep) (flashes red)
as its flashing red its a Rlod not a Ylod

you forgot to de-hash or the de-hash failed is what this sounds like.

what you need to do is re-flash then de-hash

now with TEENSY++ and ProgSkeet you can power the NOR via the flashers without powering the ps3 via its mains lead.
this is the only way to access the NOR so you can erase it then re-flash.
but with the E3 i havent recived mine yet to know how to power the NOR via the E3

so you need @playerkp420 the E3 expert on this site

@baileyscream with the e3 flasher you solder a wire to the nor tristate and the sbe on the clip itself and then put the flashfun switch up then turn it on. That makes the ps3 stay in for flashing and gives the flasher 3.3v to operate with. I think the op already did that and it still isn't staying powered up?
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@DarkenLX you are putting the 1st switch up right and soldered to the sbe on the clip?

[QUOTE=Bigbones87;412792] @baileyscream with the e3 flasher you solder a wire to the nor tristate and the sbe on the clip itself and then put the flashfun switch up then turn it on. That makes the ps3 stay in for flashing and gives the flasher 3.3v to operate with. I think the op already did that and it still isn't staying powered up?

but thats powering the E3 from the ps3

you need the ps3 off and unplugged from the mains and the NOR powered from the flasher as the NOR flash is corrupt from a missed / failed de-hash

you cannot access the NOR if you power up the ps3 as the ps3 wont halt due to the red flash fault kicking in before you can halt the ps3
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yea but he said 3 beeps and gives a flashing red light.

anyway your here so i will step back. as you know about the E3 not me :)

[QUOTE=baileyscream;412801] I am not trying to come off as an ass or a know it all. Sorry if I did. I am in no way an expert with these things. The op said it went from solid red, green,YELLOW, three beeps, then flashing red. Is that not ylod? Every ylod I have does this. Also the 3 consoles I have bricked did this, due to not dehashing and I fixed them by doing soldering the nor tristate to the e3 clip and using flash fun mode, which kept the system powered on while reflashed it.

[QUOTE=Bigbones87;412809] no no no your not comming off as an ass (i was thinking i was tbh)
it looks like we all have our own versions of what is ylod and rlod lol

i see it as the end result
so this ended up flashing red so i class that as rlod
but you guys class it as ylod as it did flash a yellow light BEFORE it flashed red (also the 3 beeps)

lol we are all talking about the same thing :)

i think my confusion comes from the "this system has over heated and will now shut down" message then when it shuts down it gives 3 beeps and flashes red.
and thats called a rlod
so when i get the end result as that i call it rlod