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-   -   pwr ON, G, Y, G, Y, G, Y - blinking R light (http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=53055)

hexial 03-07-2013 09:40 AM

pwr ON, G, Y, G, Y, G, Y - blinking R light
 
i turn on my ps3 and i get this combo of lights;

Power ON,
Green light,
Yellow light,
Green light,
Yellow light,
Green light,
Yellow light,
then ps3 shuts off leaving blinking Red light.

when i try again, it's only one Yellow light. is this ylod or smth else?

ps3 cechj 40gb, 4.11 ofw

ok, first things first

prior the condition patient was treated with e3 flasher and i, in my own anxious mindset, instead of e3 card reader acting as a downgrade dog, put true blue dongle thinking it's a downgrade dongle, which it isn't, into the patient, when that didn't work i plugged in the joystick in an attempt to do whatever. when i received the e3 card reader, i downgraded the patient with e3 card reader and then tried to exit fsm, after the install of rogero 3.55 cfw which completed 100% but i never saw it, it just returned back to fsm and in e3 flasher log stated that it failed to initialize ps3 bios and e3_downgrade was still on micrto sd card. i then tried to update to 4.31 ofw and got corrupt data error 8002f157, which i tried to fix but couldn't manage to put that downgrade.bin into the patient, i got fail to initialize e3 nor error 10001100. afterwards i tried to downgrade again making 3 non valid dumps. i reclipped like 50-70 times i got so frustrated that i took out the clamp and after that i received ylod which i thougt was a bricked patient and tried to solder tristate to e3 sbe then tristate to ground on mobo, which didn't help at all. then i noticed it's only a ylod, i reflowed it for a brief moment, then decided to reflow again but this time connect e3 flasher and solder tristate to ground on mobo. i reflowed with an industrial fan but my flux is a no no-clean flux and it melted and went all over the board. i tried to remove it with alcohol but all i managed to do is smear the flux all over the board. i put it back and sow dim led light on my patient as soon i turned the power to 1 (NO patient PWR ON), so i concluded flux went into the pores of my mobo and it is eating it's way around from the inside of my patient.

with this i conclude my report in an effort to warn everybody what not to do when downgrading with e3 flasher

also, tomorow i'll try to remove the flux with hot water. anybody have a better idea?

second:

ps3 is 2-3 year old, it is used and i bought it from the ad saying it was dual boot cfw, which it wasn't. both hdd disks were empty, fresly formated, no multiman or any other cfw, in settings saying it is 4.11 ofw. i also got Metldr2 error in my e3 flasher log saying patient is undongradeable. ???

also i have a valid nor dump, validated with people here on this forum if it makes any difference

i can take pictures and video and upload it here, so you can see 3x Y light

playerkp420 03-07-2013 09:59 AM

Strange that it keeps going back n forth between green and yellow.

Have you tried to enter the recovery menu?

It may very well be YLOD.

What happened prior to the problem?

General Plot 03-07-2013 10:15 AM

My 40GB CECHH model did the exact same thing. It is indeed the YLOD. You'll need to get a reball done if you want a permanent fix. Reflows can make it run again, but you won't get long out of it.

rastaman46 03-07-2013 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by General Plot (Post 552881)
My 40GB CECHH model did the exact same thing. It is indeed the YLOD. You'll need to get a reball done if you want a permanent fix. Reflows can make it run again, but you won't get long out of it.

Don't say that if its done professionally its gona last for ages if it had heat gun involved and no skills then yes reballing not always are necessary !!!

General Plot 03-07-2013 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rastaman46
Don't say that if its done professionally its gona last for ages if it had heat gun involved and no skills then yes reballing not always are necessary !!!

If it's reballed with leaded solder, then odds are it will last even longer than it the original factory BGA unleaded solder did. Reflows are temporary at best, plain and simple. Solder loses it's composition each time it's heated to it's melting point (no flux is added during a reflow). Not to mention the risk of making matters worse when you reflow it. It's just overall better to reball if you plan to get more than borrowed time with a PS3 that's hit a YLOD.

playerkp420 03-07-2013 05:32 PM

I agree. Even a professional reflow job is poop. You need to replace that crappy solder, with leaded solder.

3absiso 03-07-2013 05:52 PM

I second That,
i re-flowed a PS3 the other day, came back a week later :)

BwE 03-07-2013 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by playerkp420 (Post 552876)
Strange that it keeps going back n forth between green and yellow.

Have you tried to enter the recovery menu?

It may very well be YLOD.

What happened prior to the problem?

Not strange

Quote:

Originally Posted by playerkp420 (Post 553069)
I agree. Even a professional reflow job is poop. You need to replace that crappy solder, with leaded solder.

Not poop

playerkp420 03-07-2013 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BwE (Post 553097)
Not strange



Not poop

I never seen one go from Green to Yellow to green to yellow etc... So it is strange to me. :laugh:

Thought if it wasn't strange, it would say something about it here. :dontknow:

BwE 03-07-2013 08:12 PM

When it does it more than once, it means theres more than one problem.

But normally its still just the RSX being a *****.

Regarding reflows, how long did the ps3 last originally? Since 2008+? 5 Years on lead-free solder isnt that bad. So why would a full/proper reflow be bad too? The only issue is that people forget that when you reflow, you need to do other things to keep it going.


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