Originally Posted by judges
Didn't I say that? Don't know what you consider large traces, but the trace between 3.3V pad and TO-220 pad is really tiny and it carries all the current to the console.
Don't see how that changes the situation. Then you should rather consider to unsolder the nor and flash it off-board.
So, did you measure the voltage at the nor when powering with atx? Guess that's the first thing to do..
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Not really either. According to the schematics the i/o lines UVCC and VBUS are still powered by USB. And that certainly makes sense, the power must come from somewhere when console is turned off. I just don't know why it's 3V and not 5V. Must be some internal Atmel magic.
Ah, I didn't look over the schematics, I just traced the visible components. I'd assume that there was a via under one of them that ate from the USB's +5v, I didn't think to check. I'd assume the voltage difference is due to many modern chips being able to push different voltages over certain pins depending on the configuration. As only the chip itself would need the +5v, it would have had +3.3v over all the other internally configured IO pins. But what do I know, I've never worked with an ATMEL chip before.
On the topic of lifting the chip, I most certainly would, if I had a reader for them. But alas, as I do not, I have to use these methods. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying these are inferior by any means, just that they take more work to, well, make them work. I'll try again, including a complete rewiring of the chip, and report my findings in a few hours. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
Thanks again for all your help thus far, to the both of you.
Edit: I should probably mention that I did later try the [PSU] -> [PS3 VCC] + [PSU] -> [Teensy++ TO-220 Pad] on separate wires, which yielded the same results.