[hellsing9]

Originally Posted by joemuscles Seems like a more positive connection to the nor chip by soldering wires directly, more stable than an clip on the chip that will probably eventually pry or loosen off. what playerkp said I have not wired my e3 linker yet. Still practicing solder such tiny points. Getting better. But from my understanding from here and here is that bvcc is tied to vcc by mobo. So bvcc + vcc = 3.3v vcc. It looks like both get soldered to vcc. Ground = vss. There are a lot of choices for the grounds and not all are needed. Look at the chart and compare the e3 linker column with the progskeet column to get the correct points in the pic for your mobo. I hope he is right with that saying BVCC and VCC on the E3 Linker have to both be solder to the VCC testpoint, but my question also that hasn't been answered to that is while looking a ps3wiki hardware flashing Nor Pin #53 looks to be BVCC's location to the right of the nor pad pin location table, to the right of it says it tied to the mobo what playerkp is saying like if both have to be solder together then solder to the vcc testpoint connection?

I think here we need help from @euss or you can connect to EFnet on irc and go the channel #PS3downgrade
They will clarify your doubts, since i have doubts too about that testpoint.

[joemuscles]

Ok I got my answer from @euss

BVCC on linker = pin 53 on NOR = BYTE# = not used because it is tied to board(B)VCC

use Pin# 53 or ignore because it is already tied to VCC on board


Also got the " Electronics idiot of the week award "

lmfao, what can i say I got my answer, thanks to him. I'll proceed now with the E3 Linker and update status later.

tc

Thanks

[hellsing9]

Report back @joemuscles , see @euss don't like to be mentioned but he is always helping the wiki-man knows!!! THE WIKI-MAN KNOWSSSSSSSS!!!

[joemuscles]

Ok I solder all wires, to the e3 linker on the e3 flash board put, only the esata cable to the linker and started up the ps3. All was working for about 10mins, then I believe it ylod on me, I've solder the tri-state to sbe so how do I on ylod or unbrick it now? I don't know what happened?

Red light then Green Light then yellow then back to blinking red?

I completely disassembled the ps3 to check out the chips nothing looked at of the ordinary and the heat sink of chips were cool to the touch after it ylod but i didn't apply thermal paste could it had a good amount already, and besides i was going to put the copper shims with new thermal paste after I successfully downgrade and saved bios, cause I was going to do the double boot feature had to disassamble again anyhow, I don't think it ylod of death by over heating but by the e3 flasher, can I still back up bois then reflash this might fix ylod? thanks in advance

[joemuscles]

Originally Posted by joemuscles Ok I solder all wires, to the e3 linker on the e3 flash board put, only the esata cable to the linker and started up the ps3. All was working for about 10mins, then I believe it ylod on me, I've solder the tri-state to sbe so how do I on ylod or unbrick it now? I don't know what happened? Red light then Green Light then yellow then back to blinking red? I completely disassembled the ps3 to check out the chips nothing looked at of the ordinary and the heat sink of chips were cool to the touch after it ylod but i didn't apply thermal paste could it had a good amount already, and besides i was going to put the copper shims with new thermal paste after I successfully downgrade and saved bios, cause I was going to do the double boot feature had to disassamble again anyhow, I don't think it ylod of death by over heating but by the e3 flasher, can I still back up bois then reflash this might fix ylod? thanks in advance

Need some help please.

Would like to know also if ylod can be caused by e3 flasher without even doing a downgrade process cause all i did was only connect the hard drive to the esata station and to the linker without the face program connection to the e3 flasher board. If I can proceed with un doing the ylod by unbricking it with the e3 flasher, but do you need a backed up bios first? I've heard of people going in fun flash mode but does that need a backed up bois? If possibly I ylod the ps3 by not putting thermal compound back, but it's hard to say because it happened literally in 10mins, nor did the fan speed up.


I would like to proceed with the reflowing the chips with my heat gun but want to hear back first.

Thanks

[joemuscles]

Ok YLOD gone after Reflow, applied new thermal paste.

Will monitor game play to see if fan speed you speed up some during play.
If it doesn't this could cause it again to ylod. If so then what are some steps to take, fan replacement or is there a thermostat location that has to get replaced.

If everything is good, I will proceed with the downgrade process, but will upload my dump so, someone could verify if it is good.

Thanks

[alex-07]

Originally Posted by joemuscles Ok YLOD gone after Reflow, applied new thermal paste. If everything is good, I will proceed with the downgrade process, but will upload my dump so, someone could verify if it is good. Thanks

In case you like to do it self here

if you like to get live help or check your dump, join the chat ps3downgrade or chat ps3downgrade

use better this for chat channels

[joemuscles]

Has anyone successfully solder e3 linker with all test points to Nor Console and downgrade this way?

Ok I've tried making a backing up my flash for the ps3, when I put switches 1 and 2 down and all the rest up, nothing happens. PS3 does not load up leaving a message on the screen " could not start up cannot find hard disk" ?
but take off e3 face plate just attach only esata cable to the e3 flasher then to esata station and PS3 Loads up to XMB Screen?

I've made sure the upgrade bin is on the root of the Sd card.

I've made sure the SD card is formatted to Fat32.

Lights are all lit up on the e3 face plate.

I've solder the e3 linker with the test points on the board, I've left out BVCC cause from what I understand it's not need cause it's tied to the motherboard already. Another member ousi8*** says true points 3.3v > VCC and BVCC? don't understand this?

[joemuscles]

Ok Finally I think Success, once someone could verify my back up bios.

Ok took apart ps3 again, VCC Testpoint location on the motherboard to vcc on e3 linker one wire was already soldered, I couldn't get blue lights to light on E3 Flasher face plate to take update on SD card, so I soldered another wire to VCC testpoint location on the motherboard to BVCC. On E3's Face plate set switches 1 and 2 down and all the reset up, all 8 lights light up steady assuming it took e3 upgrade bin, next press reset button on ps3. Set #3 up all others down only blue lights lit up 1 blue light to #8 all one by one. 3x sequence I have 3 back ups.

Could someone please verify my backups?

http://www.mediafire.com/?4s6il1o9347322p backup 1
http://www.mediafire.com/?am8aandm1xnwidl backup 2
http://www.mediafire.com/?ahlwyiaw0ik9edl back up 3

also would like to know why only blue lights light up, no power red light or green lights to indicate what switches are up and what switches are down? lol also realized by applying pressure on the e3 face plate green lights go on. shaved down back of pins for this to fit more snug into e3 flasher board.

FYI for anybody have problems connecting Esata cable to flasher to Esata station, I've notice at least with my Fat PS3 that after inserting the E3 Face plate then trying to insert the Esata cable it doesn't go in all the way to make contact. so I trimmed the Esata cable.