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#11 |
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The bios need to be named bkpps3.bin . I know the e3 does byte reverse the bios, but I never do anything with them and it works just fine. I just used the backups I get the way they are and everything works. It must fix them as it is flashing back to the nor.
************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* I am not at my computer so I can't check your dumps. I viewed them in hex Viewer on my iPad, and they look good from what I can tell without hxd editor and Flowrebuilder. The program I have on iPad is crap and just let's me look at the bios, but I can't do anything else. If you aren't sure they are good I would start a thread and ask someone to verify they are valid before trying to flash the console. |
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#12 |
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Well, I got the same 1001100 error when trying to flash my backup, so if the clip really is the problem, it might be broken somehow. I flipped the switches to 011000 to see if I could get some sort of backup out of it, but I got the same 1001100 error.
So if this is a hardware error, I may have to buy a new clip. Which isn't great because I don't want to spend another $30+tax+shipping on what may be a failed experiment. |
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#13 |
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@mryumyum
I hear ya. Like I said, I am almost positive it isn't a lost cause, but I understand you not wanting to risk putting more money in it. I would do it for you, but you would have to pay shipping both ways, which would prolly be more than buying a new clip. I wouldnt chrage you anything just cause I really want to get it working now, so I know it can be done. Bummer. I would keep playing with the clip you have if your are interested in messing with it. If not, then sell it for parts. If you do end up giving up, please let me know. I will buy the ps3 from you, just to try and finish our problem at hand. Hate leaving things half finished.
************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* Make sure the clips pins don't look bent or messed up at all. Tape something on top to give it constant pressure when the console it reassembled. Don't give up. Last edited by Bigbones87; 08-30-2012 at 11:39 PM. |
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#14 |
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Ok, so this is a little strange. I got very close to my clip and I could see it was hitting a transistor on the board that is very close to the nor chip. Apparently other people with some slim consoles have had similar problems. So I shaved down some of the plastic on the clip and I think I got it to sit a little better.
But now my ps3 is doing what it was during the very first post of this particular thread. It turns off no matter what combination I use of the first two switches, and if I try to press start before it turns off, I get the 11000010 error, just like in the first post. |
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#15 |
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That is strange. Maybe the sbe point on the clip is not making good contact to the trace now that you have been messing with it. I have popped the little solder pad off of 2 clip ribbons, so they aren't that tough. You may not have popped it off, but it could not be hitting the trace too good anymore. You know you can solder a wire from the nor tristate to any ground on the board too? It will keep the ps3 on just the same as long as it is flash related.
************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* If it is flash related, soldering a wire from nor tristate to ground on mobo will give you green light of death ( Green light, no video or sound). If it doesn't, and it still turns off, then it is not flash related. |
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#16 |
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Is there a way I can check my soldering points with a multimeter? I checked between A and B and I have infinite resistance, so I guess I scratched that out correctly. But how could I check if I soldered A and the Tristate correctly? I couldn't find a diagram that shows where they end up on either end of the clip.
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#17 |
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@mryumyum
Put the multimeter on continuity or short test whichever you want to call it. The one that makes sound when you touch the two leads together. Take one lead and put it on the sbce on the clip. Hold the clip where the part that clips to the flasher motherboard is facing you and at the top. The words e3 flasher wrote on the ribbon should be visible and on the left hand side. Take the other lead and the 3rd pin from the top on the right side of the clip that clips to the e3 flasher is the sbce. You should get a short. Now take the other lead and go to the end of the wire where it connects to A and you should still get a short if it is going all the way through. The same for your sbe point. Start at the clip itself. Should have a short between the 4 pin on the right hand side of the clip that clips to the e3 flasher board and the sbe. If so then try between the nor tristate and the 4th pin from the top on the e3 flashers clip. Should have a short if it is good all the way from the flashers clip to the ps3 motherboard.
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#18 |
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Alright, I think we're making headway here. Thanks for the tip. I'd never done that before because I didn't know where I would find the corresponding pins on the clip, but I just realized it doesn't matter. I can just run along all of them until I get a beep...
Anyway, I have figured out the problem. The SBE point on my clip is ****ed. Before I knew that my CFW choice was bad, I tried unsoldering/resoldering everything to make sure I had good connections, and I must have abused the SBE with too much heat because it looks like the point itself has popped off the ribbon... I don't know when this happened since I had the wires taped to the ribbon to prevent any tugging. As soon as I took off the tape, the wire fell off with the little gold SBE ring attached. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement, otherwise I will buy a new one. Thanks so much for the help. I will post again when I have installed a new clip. Hopefully that won't be in too long. |
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#19 |
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@mryumyum
You can gt the ps3 up and working without the sbe point on the ribbon. If you just want to get it back to working than you can solder a wire from the tristate to a ground point on the motherboard and it will keep the ps3 on while you flash it. Or if you are wanting to continue with getting it dual booted, then you can use the point on the flasher itself. There is a sbe point on the flasher motherboard. Look here http://www.ps3devwiki.com/wiki/File:...sdusbivehp.jpg
************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* I found this method on ps3devwiki under e3. At the bottom of the page it tells you what you can do if you mess up the sbe point on the ribbon. Go give that page a read. Good luck. Hopefully I have been helpful to you
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![]() Last edited by Bigbones87; 09-03-2012 at 09:32 PM. |
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#20 |
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I assumed I was the only idiot who managed to snap one of those things off. Good thing there are others. Thanks for the find.
I found the SBE point on the bottom of the E3 (and I'm sure it's the right point because I connected the E3 linker up and used the multimeter to double check) and soldered a wire to it. I ran that wire and spliced it with the old wire I had connected to the point on the ribbon. Everything should be good to go, but the E3 doesn't light up when I turn on my ps3. I'll have to take it apart and poke through it to see what the problem might be, but if it's not getting power, that would be a problem with the sata power connecting between the E3 and the ps3 mobo (I assume), which shouldn't be the case since they're definitely connected. But I'm going to take a look and see what's up. ************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* Nevermind. I took it apart and poked around and it lights up again. But now I'm getting a 10001100 error, so I'm going to check the clip (again...). ************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* So far as I can tell, everything should be good to go, hardware-wise. The clip is settled in more nicely than it has ever been before and the soldered wires are making good connections and not shorting anything out. Is there a way I could be getting the 10001100 error without it being a hardware problem? PS3DevWiki says I should clean with isopropyl alcohol or solder everything directly using the E3 linker, but I'm inclined to think it's not a hardware issue. |
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