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#21 |
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Your story of the steps you did NEVER shows you dehashing by qa flagging. This would cause your console to act like a ylod because you will have semi bricked by causing a syscon hash panic. I am assuming that the firmware you switched to from rogero had the syscon hashed and therefore didn't cause a syscon hash panic, but when you switched to kmeaw, you didn't dehash and it doesn't have the syscon hashed therefore you semi bricked. Correct me if I a wrong anyone.
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#22 | ||
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************* [ - Post Merged - ] *************
as your info the semi-brick is (RSOD) can be fixed by FSM, and the full brick is (YLOD) you can't boot your ps3 after only 5 second then will turn off immediately. and will be like Green light-> once flash yellow light -> flashing red light. -------------------- let us talking about a new ps3 on 4.11 OFW and i want downgrade it to 3.55 OFW to install TB CFW with using the dongle what i should to do? because i trust the TB. TB required a OFW 3.55 to work. i have all ps3 downgrading tool kit. and you can guide me from here to avoid YLOD/RLOD/GLOD/ + RSOD + Game load into black screen...etc on new ps3 slim on 4.11 If this can back again, ignore my post. |
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#24 |
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@Smart60
that is what I am trying to tell you. The ylod means there is a hardware failure. When you go from a firmware that has the syscon hashed for downgrading and then you install a firmware that doesn't have syscon hashed without first dehashing the console, then you will make the ps3 think there is something wrong with the nor chip. There is an easy way to tell if the ps3 is ylod for real or because of a flash issue. Try this. Solder a wire from the nor tristate to any of the ground points on the motherboard and turn the ps3 on. If the console turns on with a green light and doesn't show picture or sound, then it is flash related and not a real ylod. Or you can solder a wire from the nor tristate to the sbe point on the e3 ribbon cable and put switch 1 up to flash fun mode and turn on the ps3. If the ps3 turns on and stays on then it isn't a real ylod. Try one of those things and report back. If it isn't a real ylod, then I can walk you through fixing this ps3. It is really simple.
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#25 |
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Hi bro, you make me excited ^_^ i love this work. i'll try this in tonight but i need some clear steps before to go! can you...please?
i have read this topic but i see the people a little confused. http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=37624&page=3 So what the correct way to solder the wire from nor tristate to the ground point? Can you explain that to me by writing a line from-to using the paint? Here the clear IMAGE: ![]() then wait me i'll give u the result. if it work you're a king of PS3hax!! and your help will be greatly appreciated. hope it work. ^_^ |
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#26 | |
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#27 |
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Understood. but i need the correct way of how to solder a wire from tristate to sbe & from tristate to ground point?
Last edited by Smart60; 09-05-2012 at 03:43 PM. |
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#28 |
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It is one or the other. You can go from the tristate to the sbe on the e3 clip ribbon OR you can solder a wire from tristate to any ground on the board. I recommend going from the sbe on the e3 clip ribbon to nor tristate, because it gives you a switch and you can leave it like it is. If you solder a wire from the tristate to ground on the board, after you flash it, you will have to unsolder it or cut it when you are done flashing it.
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#30 |
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Yeah, you can just tape it, but I found that to be harder than soldering, because it can give you false ylod. If it isn't making good contact to both points and you think it is and then turn the ps3 on, it will still give you ylod making you think it is a real ylod, when in fact it is just not making good contact. Soldering is pretty much fail proof. If you solder the wire and it still ylod and doesn't stay on doing either method, it is the real deal.
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