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#11 |
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Senior Member
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@e3brickedvictom
. You had to of done one of two things to get it to stay on, or otherwise you weren't brick. If it is a brick you would need to solder the wire from the sbe point on the e3 ribbon to the nor tristate. If you do this method, than you would need to put switch 1 up to turn the ps3 on, or it would turn on and ylod. The other way to keep it turned on would be soldering a wire from a ground point on the ps3 motherboard to e nor tristate. This wouldn't require you to leave switch 1 up, because you aren't using the e3 flasher as a way to keep it turned on. Either way,Youwant the ps3 to stay on so you can reflash the console with your bios, and then downgrade. After that you won't be bricked anymore.
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#12 | |
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Apprentice
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, every1 till now has had some error or the other, hex code is nowhere close to the variations mention on ps3devwiki, damn clip is gettin on my nerves now ! Is there anyway to solder the clip , lol i'll try anythin now !
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
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#14 |
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Apprentice
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Ah!! Thanks for the clarification bout the switch.
Nope I do'nt have the e3 linker. The clip sucks is an understatement, my dumps are all comin out bad, practically all of them have mostly FFs and that i'm taking is the clip, i've put coins, tape, thumb pressure everythin, just can't get a good1, the process goes through on the TF board with the loading lights just fine after all that pressure but then when I go to byte reverse and extract i get errors and incomplete extracts and when i check in Hxd i can see it's all FFs at the start , still tryin
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
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