[Mr.Dutch]

@geoldr , the datasheet was only for a specific ic, not the complete board.

but look at this next picture, i marked the 2 copper holes that go through the board to the other side.

you see the TP28 ? (testpoint), i marked it in red, if i'm right this testpoint is connected to the same powerline, it's a bigger point to solder to.

also look at the ic on the right again , the 4 pins on the right looks to connect also to that same power trace, if i'm right then you can solder a wire across these pins.

but you have the board you can look more close if i'm right, and ofcourse you can measure it.

last but not least, did you measure if that power line is 0V when the controller is shut off?

[geoldr]

I see TP28, and it is measuring the correct voltage. When I tried to connect the LED to it, and the ground it still doesnt light up. Not sure if I am doing something wrong here, but it should work.

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by geoldr When I tried to connect the LED to it, and the ground it still doesnt light up.

did you have the polarity of the led correct?
if so, try the led directly onto the battery.

it is being said that you don't need a resistor, but even the leds build in have resistors (180ohm if i'm correct).

the led should obviously work without a resistor, it wil only shine brighter.

[geoldr]

Originally Posted by Mr.Dutch did you have the polarity of the led correct? if so, try the led directly onto the battery. it is being said that you don't need a resistor, but even the leds build in have resistors (180ohm if i'm correct). the led should obviously work without a resistor, it wil only shine brighter.

Yes, I connected the LED to the battery and it works just fine. Hmm. Ill have to look into it today again after work, but I am glad were close!

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by geoldr Yes, I connected the LED to the battery and it works just fine.

what also could be a possibility is that although it's a power line, this one is not capable of doing too much current.

personally i would still use a resistor in between (100-200ohm) because now the led might draw too much current.

also if you have the led connected you might want to measure if voltage drops to zero.

[Mr.Dutch]

@geoldr , found an alternative point, this should work.
compared a schematic that i found on the net from a dualshock 2 controller. (the led part)

in your case TP51 is TP29 (2,80V) , RN3 is RN2.
so i think TP29 and ground should give you what you need.

[geoldr]

That looks very promising. As soon as I get home I will try it.

Thanks for spending so much time on this, I really appreciate it.

[geoldr]

Bad news. The point TP29 is constantly powered, so that wont work. TP28 however does work, BUT (and also TP29) its very weak. I can see the LED turn on, but I have to be in a completely dark room to actually see it.

The battery points read 4.04V. The Ground + TP28/29 only reads 2.7V

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by geoldr Bad news. The point TP29 is constantly powered, so that wont work. TP28 however does work, BUT (and also TP29) its very weak. I can see the LED turn on, but I have to be in a completely dark room to actually see it. The battery points read 4.04V. The Ground + TP28/29 only reads 2.7V

i get it now, sony don't want us to do ledmods anymore.

i looked at my own controllers, i only own dualshock 2 ones, so i can't experiment myself.

i would probably give up searching for a decent point and use this next schematic.

R1 should be around 100ohm or less, but i can understand since you have to use a transistor that this is not an ideal solution for you.

[geoldr]

I'm sorry I don't entirely understand what you suggest I do.

If there are no solder points that are going to give the proper power, I can always just stop with this project. I can live without button lighting up.

It seems as though Sony really doesn't want anybody playing around with their controllers.