[xAnGeLoSx]

Dear Ps3hax pros

i never owned a console ever and i decided to buy one on boxing day and i got two offers to decide from :

PS3 Slim 160Gb running 4.11 software and model 3k for 200$

or

PS3 Super Slim 250Gb + playstation Move kit with 4 games for 260$

or i shouldn't get any of those at all and look for an older Slim model that can be downgraded and in this case i will lose the boxing day discount and i don't really know about the original pricing and how much will i pay for an opened older model

i know that there is no JB for both and there is no logical answer for which JB will come for first since the users of the Super Slim is raising .. and in terms or hardware and reviews i know nothing about the super slim so please help me on which should i get

Thanx in advance

[FaxiY]

the difference between fats, slim and superslim -> the design
there are no technical differents between
i prefer fats because i like there design and i think they have a bit charm
i would never buy a super slim...
i heard its so compact that it has much heating problems

if u want to jb it you need ofw 3.55 or lower (just update to 3.55 then)
if you have a ofw higher than 3.55 you need a hardware flasher that costs 90-120€
what i do is buy the slim 160gb if u rly have to choose btw these offers (you can search more i bought an already used fat on ofw 3.14)


and PS: check the controllers! original sony controller are rare and expensive (55€)

EDIT: remember that you have to buy alot of things not only the console itself:
HDMI/SCART cable(if u dont get it)
more controllers (one controller sucks :P)
and for cracking a usb-stick(256mb or more) and an externalHDD/large usb-stick or FTP(u WLAN-router or if u dont have it LAN-cable)
and perhabs PSmove

[Akintex]

Go for super slim 250gb. Which is best. Because both have same hardware. No jb option.

[donglehater]

The fat version is capable of running from its side which I believe has extended its life since I have had mine running with no issue for nearly 5 years.

[FaxiY]

Originally Posted by donglehater The fat version is capable of running from its side which I believe has extended its life since I have had mine running with no issue for nearly 5 years.

it depends on which conditions the ps3 will be

[xAnGeLoSx]

i allready have the new slim 160 gb and thats how i know its 4.11 but im thinking of returning it cuz so far the slim that i have and the super slim have no JB and why am returning the slim is cuz for paying extra 60$ i'll be getting a 250Gb rather than 160 and a move kit with a Wheel controller and i wont use the ps3 until i can JB it

thats why i need your pro and experianced opinions to decide that what should i get from the offers or just return the Slim that i have now and get an older Slim or maybe phat from ebay or something and to be honest i got the Slim yesterday and until now i havent slept from how much i read about JBs and Downgrading since i knew nothing about them befor yesterday so a really good answer now would be much much appreciated :D

[fanboysarestupid]

Originally Posted by FaxiY and PS: check the controllers! original sony controller are rare and expensive (55€)

How are they rare? The ones that aren't DualShock 3?

If so, the non-DS3 are actually more inferior than the official ones available now.

I wouldn't recommend him the official PS3 controller either way, unless it was for old retro games that solely use the D-PAD and for browsing the menus.

[japsander]

Originally Posted by donglehater The fat version is capable of running from its side which I believe has extended its life since I have had mine running with no issue for nearly 5 years.

my slim has spent 90% of its life on its side too with no adverse effect
sony even sell official stands link

[afzoo3hax]

If you have accepted the fact that you can't downgrade any brand new PS3 console available from the shops these days... then obviously you should have bought the Super-Slim 4K in the first place. It's a no-brainer really.

Otherwise, if you want to keep your options open, I would suggest you try to find yourself something like a CECH-25XX. Basically you want the newest PS3 you can find before they made the hardware revision and 3.60 factory min Firmware.

Caveat1: NOR or NAND.

There is nothing particularly wrong with older models too, however except the earilest FAT revisions had 2x NAND CHIP. You are better off getting a PS3 which has NOR. Because it is easier to downgrade the NOR consoles.

NAND has fewer downgrade tools available for it, and flashing 2 chip instead of 1 is more work. Also, the NAND have interleaved dump so again, more extra efforts to re-combine the 2 flash dumps into 1 file, then split them back after editing. So NOR is simpler, because it is only 1 chip to connect your flasher to, not interleaved dumps, and is more supported with the available tools.

For example NOR is supported by NORWAY. So then you can choose the Teensy 2.0++, (not forgetting to also order the $1 voltage regulator from PJRC when placing your order!!!) as I did. As far as all of the possible downgrade tools go.. Teensy is by far the cheapest.

Caveat2: Bricked consoles.

If you do buy a 2nd hand PS3 you really need to make sure its working properly before you part with your money. Inexperienced people will often brick their consoles and try to sell it on to someone else like you. A bricked console can't be re-flashed / restored without a valid dump. Obviously, if they didn't read their NOR and properly verify it there is no way to restore such console (meaning the console is unfixable / trashed forever). Hahaha. Not funny in the slightest if you didn't know beforehand.

[pereb27]

@FaxiY

Um, there ARE technical differences between all PS3 models, they are just (mostly) transparent to the user.

The most notable one is the CPU/GPU process, that makes more recent models less prone to failure (the process hasn't been reduced since the CECH-2100 Slim model though).