[DebugBrain]

ok, I can try but I trust what you said, the important thing is that it works, if you want to play it safe doing the short on 3v pad then follow the instructions to judges but when you turn on the ps3 press again the power button and hold it until the console turns off, then verify that the teensy be recognized.
If you did well welds and does not have any wires reversed, the procedure should work easily, in fact you need to connect the USB cable after you have unplugged the power cable and before you press the power button

[judges]

Originally Posted by Gadorach It was going [PSU @3.3v-14A] -> [3.3v pads on Teensy++] -> [TO-220 source pad] -> [Console VCC] as a path. ...as the traces are large enough to carry at least 5A...

Didn't I say that? Don't know what you consider large traces, but the trace between 3.3V pad and TO-220 pad is really tiny and it carries all the current to the console.

Originally Posted by Gadorach If it really comes down to it, I could just solder directly to the NOR legs with short 30AWG Kynar, ~8cm should be fine, even for NOR.

Don't see how that changes the situation. Then you should rather consider to unsolder the nor and flash it off-board.

So, did you measure the voltage at the nor when powering with atx? Guess that's the first thing to do..
************* [ - Post Merged - ] *************

Originally Posted by Gadorach Not really... If you follow the traces, you'll find that the 5v from USB is completely disconnected when the 3.3v traces are connected (and the 5v pad is cut, of course). Not only is there no power from the Teensy++, but the board is supplying the power for both the NOR and Teensy++ in that configuration.

Not really either. According to the schematics (http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/schematic.html) the i/o lines UVCC and VBUS are still powered by USB. And that certainly makes sense, the power must come from somewhere when console is turned off. I just don't know why it's 3V and not 5V. Must be some internal Atmel magic.

-- judges

[Gadorach]

Originally Posted by judges Didn't I say that? Don't know what you consider large traces, but the trace between 3.3V pad and TO-220 pad is really tiny and it carries all the current to the console. Don't see how that changes the situation. Then you should rather consider to unsolder the nor and flash it off-board. So, did you measure the voltage at the nor when powering with atx? Guess that's the first thing to do.. ************* [ - Post Merged - ] ************* Not really either. According to the schematics the i/o lines UVCC and VBUS are still powered by USB. And that certainly makes sense, the power must come from somewhere when console is turned off. I just don't know why it's 3V and not 5V. Must be some internal Atmel magic. -- judges

Ah, I didn't look over the schematics, I just traced the visible components. I'd assume that there was a via under one of them that ate from the USB's +5v, I didn't think to check. I'd assume the voltage difference is due to many modern chips being able to push different voltages over certain pins depending on the configuration. As only the chip itself would need the +5v, it would have had +3.3v over all the other internally configured IO pins. But what do I know, I've never worked with an ATMEL chip before.

On the topic of lifting the chip, I most certainly would, if I had a reader for them. But alas, as I do not, I have to use these methods. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying these are inferior by any means, just that they take more work to, well, make them work. I'll try again, including a complete rewiring of the chip, and report my findings in a few hours. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Thanks again for all your help thus far, to the both of you.

- Gadorach

Edit: I should probably mention that I did later try the [PSU] -> [PS3 VCC] + [PSU] -> [Teensy++ TO-220 Pad] on separate wires, which yielded the same results.

[judges]

Originally Posted by Gadorach I'd assume the voltage difference is due to many modern chips being able to push different voltages over certain pins depending on the configuration. As only the chip itself would need the +5v, it would have had +3.3v over all the other internally configured IO pins. But what do I know, I've never worked with an ATMEL chip before.

That's what you need the voltage regulator for (or an external 3.3V supply). When Teensy is running on 5V, it outputs 5V on the i/o lines as well.

Originally Posted by Gadorach On the topic of lifting the chip, I most certainly would, if I had a reader for them. But alas, as I do not, I have to use these methods. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying these are inferior by any means, just that they take more work to, well, make them work. I'll try again, including a complete rewiring of the chip, and report my findings in a few hours. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

You have a reader: Teensy.

Seriously, the problem here isn't the nor itself (unless it's damaged) or the flasher (unless it's buggy ), but the fact that we do in-circuit-programming. If you lift the chip and connect it to teensy, it'll probably work right away.

-- judges

[guerrierodipace]

Hi judges,
I want to ask:
I have downgraded 2 nor ps3 with Teensy++ but I haven't modified the voltage power.
I just used usb for teensy and normal power supply for ps3.
All went gone well.
In your readme you wrote about to power with 3.3v
So I can follow without modify the power?
thanks for answer

[judges]

Originally Posted by guerrierodipace Hi judges, I want to ask: I have downgraded 2 nor ps3 with Teensy++ but I haven't modified the voltage power. I just used usb for teensy and normal power supply for ps3. All went gone well. In your readme you wrote about to power with 3.3v So I can follow without modify the power? thanks for answer

The NOR requires 3.3V signals on its i/o lines. So throwing 5V at it is out of specification. It does work, but no guarantees.

If you don't have the voltage regulator, you might wanna consider powering the teensy from the console. Refer to the readme.

-- judges

[guerrierodipace]

Originally Posted by judges The NOR requires 3.3V signals on its i/o lines. So throwing 5V at it is out of specification. It does work, but no guarantees. If you don't have the voltage regulator, you might wanna consider powering the teensy from the console. Refer to the readme. -- judges

thanks for answer.
I don't want to be lazy, but if I will use again 5v what can happen?
Can I damage Teensy++? or nor?
sorry but just for understanding

[judges]

Originally Posted by guerrierodipace thanks for answer. I don't want to be lazy, but if I will use again 5v what can happen? Can I damage Teensy++? or nor? sorry but just for understanding

NOR could get damaged. But afaik this never happened.

-- judges

[liranantebi]

First of all, I would like to thank judges for his wonderful work on the NORWay project and for releasing the sources.

I have created a new project, based on his project which uses the Teensy++ 2.0 hardware to flash (read/erase/write) the PS3 (and xbox 360) NANDs.

The project is in it's alpha stage. I have already succeeded in flashing xbox 360 NANDs as well as the ps3 NANDs.

I'm doing it for experimental purposes but if anybody would like to comment and test - you are more than welcome and i will be happy to assist / support / help.

the project is currently located in github, branched from the master NORway branch and named "NORway-and-NANDway".

[Tommino81]

Hello and sorry for my english
I wanted to congratulate all what 'regarding the teensy, and Norway
would be great if everything was reported on nand, both for xbox, ps3 nand for that!
if need are also willing to do some testing!