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#71 | ||||||||
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Senior Member
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Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk |
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#72 |
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Member
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Re-usable means one thing - the ability to remove the QSB AFTER it has been soldered to the PCB. Hence in order to do this all 40ish soldered connections have to be brought to melting point at the same time. I mentioned previously in order to do that perhaps you have to use a hot-air gun to get everything hot at the same time.
Of course in getting the QSB PCB hot using a hot-air gun, surrounding components will get hot too and that includes surface mount components on the PS3 motherboard and more awkwardly the 50pin header on the QSB (the plastic of which will melt too). It can be done, but a heat shield may be needed to prevent surrounding components getting too hot. From what appears to be quite a simple concept, in practice designing a QSB board is proving quite difficult mainly due to physical restrictions imposed by surrounding SMT components and the metal enclosure. I do have a theory on how to remove the QSB without having to resort to the use a hot-air gun, but am not sure how much this technique will damage the QSB PCB. Andy |
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#73 |
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Apprentice
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I have just been browsing through a few posts regarding Progskeet, QSB's, Nand clips etc. Exciting things going on, if I may i'd like to make a suggestion. To try and remove the problem of all the different boards requiring more than one QSB. Would it be possible to design one board that goes underneath the Nand/Nor chip ( I know this requires removing the Nand/Nor chip), once the board is soldered in place the chip can be re-soldered or even solder the chip on first then solder the complete QSB to the board.
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#74 | |
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Plus this is meant to make it easy But I do hope it inspires somthing Maybe a qsb around the nor with a thin PCB Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk |
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#75 |
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Apprentice
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Great progress guys!
Would using a desoldering suction on each point first or desoldering braid first and then a hot air gun be more effective in being able to reuse the pcb? |
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#76 |
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Solder braid may work, but I find it always leaves some residual solder behind. As all the pads are pretty close together, my thoughts were along the lines of flooding everything with solder using a large soldering iron tip, constantly moving it around and thus heating all pads up simultaneously. This will work to remove the QSB, but not sure how repeatable this will be, I.e. how much it would damage the QSB PCb...
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#77 | |
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If not recommend but that's how I remove ic's warm them up I think if you can use 0.8 or 1 mm pub it will fit in the cage ??? |
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#78 |
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I still think even a 0.8mm PCB is too thick: The fattest part of the PCB is obviously where the connector sits and as luck would have it, right at this position is a large dimple in the aluminum PCB cage (at this position there is less than 2mm gap between cage and PS3 motherboard PCB). Therefore if leaving the QSB in place, a hole will need to be cut in the cage.
I am going to see if I can put the connector on the left-side where there are no recesses in the cage to interfere with the QSB. Andy PS, I knew this wasn't going to be easy... guess that is why there are no QSBs around? |
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#79 |
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I think cutting the shield to make room for the connector is minimum work to get maximum out of your setup (if you want a permanent setup)
for people that downgrade for a living this would work also just advertise with it and say easy to recover once in place etc etc give them the option to get it installed it's beats soldering wires and clips hands down
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#80 |
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use chip quik itll remove the qsb in heartbeat
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