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Old 02-09-2013   #21
rastaman46
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Im would recommend Scotle IR600
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Old 02-09-2013   #22
3absiso
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Originally Posted by CopyLifted View Post
If you mean a wand holder, I use a mic stand like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Technol...ords=mic+stand

Had to use a different mic holder though as the one supplied was too small. Use one of these (I got one from our local musical instrument shops):

http://www.amazon.com/Stage-MY250-Sh...ef=pd_sim_MI_5
Thanx a lot man, this is exactly what i was looking for
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Originally Posted by Bigbones87 View Post
here is just the adjustable jig, but you will need a 1" pipe and something for the pipe to attach to, like a table or something http://sra-solder.com/product.php/66...FQsGnQodtHkABA

Here is he actual platform setup http://sra-solder.com/product.php/63...FQ4EnQodexUAjw

Just look at e platform setup to get an idea for how to make something for the first link I gave you. The second link is more for working on smaller pcb boards. I found some other stands, but can't seem to locate them right now.
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I'm just gonna go ahead and say it......you suck! I want a Scotle so bad. They really are the cats ass in rework stations.
Thanx, but expensive, I'll stick to the wooden Handle for now
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Old 02-09-2013   #23
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[/IMG]I have this.file:///C:/Users/Public/Pictures/Sample%20Pictures/Infrared-Soldering-Station-ACHI-IR-PRO-SC.jpg

Last edited by stdule; 02-10-2013 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013   #24
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nice way to break the chat @stdule
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Old 02-09-2013   #25
stdule
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I'm sorry, I wanted to upload an image.
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Old 02-09-2013   #26
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lol, just joshing you
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Old 02-10-2013   #27
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Originally Posted by stdule View Post
I have this
thats a nice system
it was just out of my price bracket when i was looking
i spent alot on the flux / solder balls / etc so this kept how much i spent down so i got the entry level scotly ir6000 instead
and it is perfect for me esp as it can be controlled via my pc
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Old 02-12-2013   #28
3absiso
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Originally Posted by 9bz View Post
to reflow and reball with this set up you will need a good profile. here is a good one to start with for xbox360 reflow.



Rework Station: Aoyue 968
Preheater Station: Puhuit T-8280

Using 'two' K-Type Thermocouples placed at 'opposite' corners of the chip being reflown
Board lying unclamped on the stock preheater rails


Reflow Profile - Short Version:

- Set Preheater to 150C....hold there for 45 sec.
- Increase Preheater to 200C & also turn on 968 w/ Nozzle 1"above chip & set it to 252C....hold there for 45 sec.
- Increase Preheater to 220C & lower nozzle to within 1/8" of mobo.
- Increase 968 3 deg. / sec. until you hit 235C...hold for 15 seconds, then drop back down to 90C and shutoff & turn off along w/ preheater plate.


Reflow Profile - Long Version:

- Turn on and set T8280 to 150C....Hold for 45 seconds (Preheat phase 1)

- Next, increase T8280 to 200C....Hold for 45 seconds (Preheat / Soak phase 2)
- Also turn on 968 at the 'same' time as above 200C setting input on Ownta and set 968 display to 252C...(Hold for same 45 seconds)
(4141 Nozzle is 1" above mobo surface at this point)

- Next, increase T8280 to 220C after completion of the above 45 second hold...leave here for duration of reflow (Soak phase 3)
- At the 'same' time, also lower the nozzle to within 1/8" of the mobo surface, and increase 968 display input until the actual topside chip "Probe temp" is at 230-235C..hold for 15 seconds (Reflow phase)...NOTE: If you are using multiple thermocouples next to the Chip, then go by the 'lowest' probe temp.

(the only 'exception' to this is if I am reflowing an older motherboard 05 & 06...then I try not to exceed 225C for 15 sec. and ensure I hit a minimum of 217C at the 'lowest' probe temp. as in my own experience, it seems as though the original lead free solder used by ms melts at a lower temp than what is on the newer boards made in 07 and beyond)

- Slowly raise nozzle after 15 second timer goes off, and dial down 968 display to 90C...Turn off 968 after bottom display matches 90C setting
- Dial down T8280 back to 150C starting point and immediately turn off the heater plate power (black switch). Leave main unit power (red switch) on until unit cools to 50-65C then power off.

- Let board cool for 7 minutes...then remove and place on small cookie sheet to get it off the still 'very' warm T8280 preheater and let cool for another 5 minutes.
Thanx for this profile:
my Question: when you say the degree is 150 C, you mean the Preheater or the thermometer.
since when i put my PReheater on 220 C the themo metter gives me 150 C on the chip?
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Old 02-12-2013   #29
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yes hold the preheater at 150c 45sec.
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Old 02-12-2013   #30
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ACHI IR PRO SC

Don't have a separate pre heater. Thats just stupid.
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