[playerkp420]

Originally Posted by blackjacker_21 no it's not a phat it's a slim. EDIT: is there something that can done to fix it?

You need to clean all the old paste off, and apply new. After you take it apart and put it back on, the compound that is on there will not make a good heat transfer.

If that doesn't work, it means the solder under the RSX chip is cracked. And it needs to be reballed.

[blackjacker_21]

ok i removed the thermal paste (i think it was in excess) and applied another layer of thermal paste, then put everything back together and now seems to be everything fine. the ps3 runs for around 1-2 hours by know and everything seems to be ok. i think it was too much thermal paste the first time and then the paste dried and that's why it didn't connect well with the heat sink and the gpu(mainly) and cpu. but know everything seems to be fine.

thank you again man you saved me again. tell me if there is something i can do for you when the time comes.
I won't forget your help, it's hard to find these days.

[3absiso]

Originally Posted by blackjacker_21 ok i removed the thermal paste (i think it was in excess) and applied another layer of thermal paste, then put everything back together and now seems to be everything fine. the ps3 runs for around 1-2 hours by know and everything seems to be ok. i think it was too much thermal paste the first time and then the paste dried and that's why it didn't connect well with the heat sink and the gpu(mainly) and cpu. but know everything seems to be fine. thank you again man you saved me again. tell me if there is something i can do for you when the time comes. I won't forget your help, it's hard to find these days.

Thats why i love this forum, because you always find guys like @playerkp420 always to help, and not laugh at you.
good your PS3 is working now and you did not need @Mr.Dutch Fuse fix

[blackjacker_21]

damn it's not working again. i played last night a lot of god of war chains of olympus and then shut it off, and today when i powered it up it showed me the XMB and then some pixels colored green in a few areas. The PS3 was working because i could hear the ting ting from the XMB when i moved left to right from my controller but the image froze. I opened it up again to check the thermal paste and the layer was thin. I think it's because of the thermal paste because when i had this problem again i changed the thermal paste(arctic cooling mx4) with some other thermal paste, i don't remember the name, i bought it some time ago, because i was out of arctic cooling. When i changed it i was thinking that i would use this as a temporary replacement until i'll buy another arctic cooling but today it's not working anymore.
I'm already sick of this console, i can't take this c**p anymore from this console.
Tomorrow i'll go buy another arctic cooling, apply it and then see if it makes any difference. If not, then idk what to do.
How much will it last if i'm gonna do it a reballing?

EDIT: The good thing is that i don't get YLOD

[redtree]

I would say don't waste money changing the paste over and over as it won't repair the fault. What temps does it idle at? Leaving the top of the case off will usually lower these temps by a good few degrees.

If you decide to reball you'll need to find a legit place/person to do it. For the US I've seen @sleyeguy getting recommended.

I'd imagine a reflow would be done first to rule out any GPU damage causing the artifacting, then a reball with leaded solderballs. But I've never done this kind of stuff myself nor do I know anyone that does this work.

[blackjacker_21]

i don't know the idle temps nor the playing temps but i when i bought it (second hand) it kind of heated a lot when i was playing, i idle is was good i think.
but yesterday it heated much more, that makes me think it's the thermal paste because it makes sense. first time i applied a good thermal paste but kept getting the ps3 apart and build it back again and so on( because of downgrading and stuff) and when i was done downgrading and installed cfw and tested it(with ps3 out of the casing) then i put everything back together and after i did that the ps3 didn't showed anything on the screen, just a few minutes after it worked. and it makes sense to think it was because of the thermal paste, because when i first applied the good thermal paste, it began to stick to the rsx and the heat sink, kind of glued together, and then i pull the mother board from the heat sink(in order to build everything back together after) the thermal paste wasn't as good as knew after that and after i build everything back it didn't made contact well with rsx and heat sink and that cause the GLOD. After that playerkp420 told me to remove the thermal paste and apply it again but when he told me that i was out of the good thermal paste, and then i used a "not so good" thermal paste, and then it worked, but just until today because the thermal paste wasn't good enough and didn't make contact enough today when i powered up the ps3(and the thermal paste(the poor quaility one) layer was thin too)
And that's my theory about it.
I don't think the RSX solderballs are broken or something, it's just the thermal paste and i think changing it and puting everything together and never removing the heat sink from the mother board will make everything work fine(the good thermal paste i was talking about was arctic cooling mx4, it's metal compound free and it has 8 years warranty)

[playerkp420]

If you do get a reball, sleyeguy is the man. And you can't beat his price. Here is his thread.
http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=51543

You may save money by doing that, instead of keep opening and replacing the thermal compound. Each time you pull the motherboard from the heat sinks, it stresses the solder under the GPU. Especially with new paste, that is making good contact.

Thoses pixels is the GPU. Whether you didn't apply the paste correctly, or it needs a reball. I would say pay the $40 and have it done. It will prolong the life of your console, anyway.

[blackjacker_21]

there is only one problem to that: I'm from Europe, Romania to be more accurate.
i'll try one more time with a new thermal paste and if that doesn't fix it then it's as sure as hell it needs reballing.
How long will the console live if a reballing will be done to it?
I heard the sony solverballs are lead free and that's the reason a lot of ylod/glod happen.
After a reball they will be leaded and that's better, right?
But what will be the life expectancy after that?

[redtree]

Originally Posted by blackjacker_21 i'll try one more time with a new thermal paste and if that doesn't fix it then it's as sure as hell it needs reballing. How long will the console live if a reballing will be done to it? I heard the sony solverballs are lead free and that's the reason a lot of ylod/glod happen. After a reball they will be leaded and that's better, right? But what will be the life expectancy after that?

When changing the thermal paste, run the PS3 up to idle temp first. This will help you remove the board from the heatsink without flexing it as you life it.

With regards to life expectancy, leaded solder should cope with heating/cooling cycles better than unleaded. The main thing is how well the re-ball job is done of course. Watch out for scammers who will wreck your PS3 with their heatguns and oven

[playerkp420]

Originally Posted by blackjacker_21 there is only one problem to that: I'm from Europe, Romania to be more accurate. i'll try one more time with a new thermal paste and if that doesn't fix it then it's as sure as hell it needs reballing. How long will the console live if a reballing will be done to it? I heard the sony solverballs are lead free and that's the reason a lot of ylod/glod happen. After a reball they will be leaded and that's better, right? But what will be the life expectancy after that?

Reballing the GPU and CPU, with leaded solder, is considered to be a permanent fix.
But that is not to say, a different component won't fail at sometime. But it should last a very long time. Just make sure they do a reball, and not a reflow.

Good luck.