The complete guide to Reflowing - Page 12 - PS3Hax Network

jeeqer · 03-22-2012

HI GUYS, need ur help. i got a ps3 with YLOD, i reflu it with workstation several times, but to no succsess. need ur help to fix it pls. thanks.

BobbyBlunt · 03-23-2012

Originally Posted by jeeqer

HI GUYS, need ur help. i got a ps3 with YLOD, i reflu it with workstation several times, but to no succsess. need ur help to fix it pls. thanks.

If you did a proper reflow at a proper rework station and you still have the YLoD, then your PS3 may be beyond repair.

Solderking · 06-15-2012

Long time reader first time registered member. thought would drop my 2 cents of what i found on my repair of the fat PS3s.

First one i fixed i did the whole pre warm both sides without flux. heat gun at around 350 and no closer than maybe 3 inches off the cpu and gpu. heat gun it constantly until it was around 100 then turned it off(used a 2 zone hand held laser temp gun). still going strong for a couple of weeks now.
second one was stubborn i tried flux with this one and yl after two days. i then fluxed again but this time did the 350 temp at 1 inch off the cpu/gpu and i could see the flux smoke and hear the faint popping and crackling of the flux and solder melting.

i am certain the reflows worked however the board was going through hell no matter how well you pre heat it. when installing it to test i could hear the board flexing. so most of the work was undone putting the board back in the metal and aluminium shielding no matter how long i let it cool down. so i left the heat shielding on and just removed the fan shrowd assembly so it was just both sides of the metal holding the board flat then reheated it again without flux didnt pre heat too much and did the 1 inch passed over cpu/gpu and the 4 close bgas. waited 25 minutes to cool down. placed board with shielding still attached back in the plastic case powered up....no ylod, just green and boot up. i did this without the heat sink and fan but only briefly. now all have to do is cut a void so i can put the battery backup coin cell in without having to remove the heat shielding that appears to undo the reflow each time i re assemble it. good to know there is still life in it so my efforts of loading the cfw and Rogero werent in vain.

i hope this helps someone and if the next one i fix works the same way i will post a tutorial with pics. hey you cant have too many tutorials right?

03-22-2012	#111
jeeqer Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 40 Likes: 6 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	help with YLOD HI GUYS, need ur help. i got a ps3 with YLOD, i reflu it with workstation several times, but to no succsess. need ur help to fix it pls. thanks.

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The complete guide to Reflowing

06-15-2012	#113
Solderking Apprentice Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 1 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Long time reader first time registered member. thought would drop my 2 cents of what i found on my repair of the fat PS3s. First one i fixed i did the whole pre warm both sides without flux. heat gun at around 350 and no closer than maybe 3 inches off the cpu and gpu. heat gun it constantly until it was around 100 then turned it off(used a 2 zone hand held laser temp gun). still going strong for a couple of weeks now. second one was stubborn i tried flux with this one and yl after two days. i then fluxed again but this time did the 350 temp at 1 inch off the cpu/gpu and i could see the flux smoke and hear the faint popping and crackling of the flux and solder melting. i am certain the reflows worked however the board was going through hell no matter how well you pre heat it. when installing it to test i could hear the board flexing. so most of the work was undone putting the board back in the metal and aluminium shielding no matter how long i let it cool down. so i left the heat shielding on and just removed the fan shrowd assembly so it was just both sides of the metal holding the board flat then reheated it again without flux didnt pre heat too much and did the 1 inch passed over cpu/gpu and the 4 close bgas. waited 25 minutes to cool down. placed board with shielding still attached back in the plastic case powered up....no ylod, just green and boot up. i did this without the heat sink and fan but only briefly. now all have to do is cut a void so i can put the battery backup coin cell in without having to remove the heat shielding that appears to undo the reflow each time i re assemble it. good to know there is still life in it so my efforts of loading the cfw and Rogero werent in vain. i hope this helps someone and if the next one i fix works the same way i will post a tutorial with pics. hey you cant have too many tutorials right?

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