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Old 01-05-2013   #1211
baileyscream
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Originally Posted by donkey-punch View Post
nah sorry my bad mate it was the images you supplied below with the HxD. My HxD images matched up to your's other than ASECURE LOADER and bootldr. Also how do you determine HDD and firmware version and model number. Sorry to bother you on this it's just that I'd like to start verifying my own dumps. Like I stated in the dump check thread I was 99% sure but would like to become competent.
the images are to show there is infomation in these areas and not just
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF etc
or
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 etc

at the end f the verify steps it says :-

now go to the ps3devwiki's validating flash dumps pages and do the checks there
MAIN VALIDATE PAGE
DISCUSSION PAGE WITH MORE CHECKS


if you click the 2 links you will be taken to the wiki and see more checks to do.

i know we have done this in pm but i like to keep this in the thread

for anyone else the wiki is down again
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Originally Posted by magic_marty View Post
on the first page on this guide i don't see the solder diagrams listed ...it only tells how to set up progskeet using the clip.From what i have been reading the clips are mostly one time use so i assume its best to solder directly to the board..But a diagram is needed to show the solder points unless i missed it somehow..
thanks a bunch..
if your following the progskeet NAND guide then you use either NAND clips or solder to the legs of the NAND or lift the NAND chips and attach them to @Sarah1331 's board adaptor (see the main post under flashers for more details or quote sarah1331 by putting a @ infront of his name)

if you mean one of the other guides then which one? as they should all have soldering diagrams now. including the progskeet v1.2 that i just posted
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Old 01-05-2013   #1212
magic_marty
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are the legs on the nand labeled? there are so many and it would be so easy to goof up and solder to the wrong leg..or is there a data sheet on the web that lists which leg is what like a pin out i guess?

sorry for all the newb questions but i am a bit new to all this..
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Old 01-05-2013   #1213
Dartban214
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alright I have EVERYTHING I need except the heat transfer compound. Is this absolutely necessary? I can't find at Home Depot or Lowes lmao
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Old 01-05-2013   #1214
MJ999
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Originally Posted by Dartban214 View Post
alright I have EVERYTHING I need except the heat transfer compound. Is this absolutely necessary? I can't find at Home Depot or Lowes lmao
It is recommended, because once you open the console the existing compound on the IHS will dry up.
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Old 01-05-2013   #1215
magic_marty
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i found some at Radio Shack but its a bit expensive for such a tiny tube..
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Old 01-05-2013   #1216
Dartban214
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Originally Posted by MJ999 View Post
It is recommended, because once you open the console the existing compound on the IHS will dry up.
Originally Posted by magic_marty View Post
i found some at Radio Shack but its a bit expensive for such a tiny tube..
Thanks. I'll try Radio Shack tomorrow.

Edit: I'll try Best Buy also.

Originally Posted by Mr.Dutch View Post
is this from a board that have the logicboard built in?
LOL I'm jst gonna take pixs from the inside of my slim. She didn't have different pixs from the fat and the slim. It's a CHECH-25xx1b AKA slim

actually I'm going to follow this guys Tut:How to Install E3 Flasher on PS3 Slim - Part 1 - YouTube for the strip down not the installation. I'm going to solder the E3 flasher to the tristate. So it's basically same just small differences. I'm going to base all the files etc. That bailey provides. Also I'm going to follow her guide on validating NOR dumps. Just going to post them in the Validate dump thread(DUH).

In other words Using her guide just not the strip down LMAO



EDIT: ok took it apart (I didn't take pics this time guys. Sorry. You'll have to wait until my E3 flasher comes in from Pug)

This video is fairly Accurate. There are a couple of differences. Some of which pictures are almost impossible. There's a ribbon under the BR drive which BLOWS to put back in it's little thing(don't know technical term kiss my ass. I'm software dude not hardware) there are also three little ribbons hooked on the back of the BR drive. What's nice about them is they have little holds on them so they can be pulled a little easier.

ALSO the the first time you take your BR drive out you WILL take out the buttons. When you do this there will be like a pop. (It's not broke don't worry) This loosens the buttons so that the BR drive can be taken out. There will be a ribbon on the buttons so I would take the BR drive out then I would pull the ribbon that was underneath the BR. Makes it easier when you place it in.

I would like to recommend though that if you are going to use OFW have someone take your PS3 apart and put it back together. After I did mine it started running like a dream. (NO I didn't add CFW yet just took apart) For some reason my ps3 fan was LOUD. Now it's not. I don't know what I did but it helped lmao.

I'll send those ASAP bailey. Wanna get that E3 flasher lmao. Right now I'm trying to practice Soldering skills.

OH and I would like to add Bailey I would use the Wiki's advice on the guides for soldering. If someone's a noob who says they can solder? also They don't recommend certian solder such as lead free. (I think I got the wrong kind lmao I'll have to go get some tomorrow)





As for those who are wondering my motherboard type it's JTP-001
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Last edited by Dartban214; 01-06-2013 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Added info :p
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Old 01-06-2013   #1217
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Alright guys quick question. Is thermal compound the same as heat transfer compound?

Edit nvm.

So I have:
Miller Solder iron

Solder(I may have to replace because it's lead free and silver based. Because it's lead free it will get hairs(They blow)

24 AWG wire(About a foot worth just in case )

Flux

Ready to solder. Just need the E3 flasher and we're in play :D
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Last edited by Dartban214; 01-06-2013 at 07:16 PM. Reason: oops
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Old 01-07-2013   #1218
rika85
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Hi baileyscream,

I read your post and was about to flash the ps3 after soldering. However, it stopped working again. I unsoldered them twice now both tristate and sbe. but no use. If you remember both my sbe and tristate were snapped and broken. Now I ched the soldering and noticed that were I traced the sbe was also broken. Now I was wondering is there an alternative point for SBE? I read that I would need to groung tristate, how can I do that if its an alternative to connecting to SBE? Please help.
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Old 01-07-2013   #1219
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Originally Posted by magic_marty View Post
are the legs on the nand labeled? there are so many and it would be so easy to goof up and solder to the wrong leg..or is there a data sheet on the web that lists which leg is what like a pin out i guess?

sorry for all the newb questions but i am a bit new to all this..
Nand pinouts
http://www.ps3devwiki.com/wiki/File:..._ProgSkeet.png
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Old 01-07-2013   #1220
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Hey everyone, I finally got my E3flasher to do a good dump thanks to all the help on here, now I seem to be stuck again. I'm following this guide and I'm at the part

Finishing the down grade in service mode

In the previous step, the One Key downgrade, everything went as it should have,

I then took out the E3 card, just the card, not the NOR clip. And Then I put the HDD in. When I turned on the PS3 it went to the main menu like normal, I did'nt get the "Connect the controller" screen.

Then I thought I would try putting the E3 card back in the HDD slot and putting the HDD back in the ESATA Station, but the same results. I did'nt retry the following step before trying the station again though.

Any Ideas?


Also, If I just go ahead with the DEV board I do the power Eject and the TV stays black, the devboard lights up and after 5min or so the PS3 turns on and goes to the main menu like normal.

Last edited by ai3643; 01-07-2013 at 10:13 PM.
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