[popsktoy]

downgrading my ps3 slim when i broke off the connector on the ps3 slim board for eject button and power button.. had it re soldered by friend.. now eject button doesn't light blue led when cd inserted.. doesn't beep when pressed and does not eject.. power light lights up red on stand by but doesn't light up green led when switched on..

where can i get this part..?
its a connector on the board where you connect the ribbon from eject buttons and power button..

what could be the problem?
1.) connector not soldered well?
2.) ribbon damaged?
3.) control board for eject and power buttons damaged?

only thing i did was tap tristate to GND point solderless by taping only to board to unbrick ps3.. would this also have caused the problem.. tnx

[haz367]

nvm................

[Mr.Dutch]

@popsktoy , did you looked how the connector was soldered back? , no shorts between pins or ground?, do you have a meter so you can measure for shorts or restistance from mainboard to power/eject board?

the power button works fine right?, only eject and some leds are off?

[popsktoy]

yes power button works and only the red led lights up (which is in standby mode only).. as for all other led's.. they dont light up.. and eject button does not function..

it was soldered back using like a hot air machine.. and it looks like no other pins touch each other when they put it back (i maybe wrong though)..

seems like the orientation of the connecter is the same when it broke off if comparing with this picture.. http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1.../IMG_6863L.jpg ... my unit is a cech 2501a..

i dont have a volt meter.. and problem is i dont know how to check for shorts and resistance.. do i really have to do this.. if yes can you guide me how mr. dutch tnx in advance
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it happened when i pulled the ribbon out.. all of a sudden i noticed that the connector leaned away from the front and towards the rear of the board.. like it was slanted away from the front of the board.. may be the front part of the plastic connector slipped from the five copper pins or wire that was soldered to the board and lifted up.. while the other five copper pins towards the rear part of the board remained giving it a slanted position.. so upon seeing this.. i tried pushing the connector back to its normal position while it was slanted.. which forced the five rear copper pins to break off from the board... i was thinking if i just gently pressed the plastic connector maybe from the top.. it would have seated the front five pins well again and maybe it would have come back to its usual upright position.. i dont know if the pins inside the plastic connector got dislodged from its grooves and shorted out.. but i am sure that the plastic connector only lifted up a liile (which was the front side only which made it slant) and no pins or wire from the 10 pin connector got exposed and that no reinsertion of the plastic connector to the copper pins was made..

[popsktoy]

does anybody know were i can get a connector like that?

[popsktoy]

my case is hopeless.. no connector in sight

[haz367]

nvm..........

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by popsktoy my case is hopeless.. no connector in sight

there should be test points on the board for the eject and power button, the fat have them anyway i guess the slim should be no different.

there's one problem, i don't know where they are, buy a fat and i will show them.