[Kazrael21]

Okay so I have done a few ylod repairs but today I was repairing 2 ps3s and they both seemed to have the YLOD, after doing the repair on both of these systems i attempted to turn them on. They both seem to have the same problem, i hit the button it turns green for 2 seconds then a red light comes on, then you here it beep twice and power down with a flashing red light.

Can anyone tell me what the problem is? I dont think its the HDD as i have already tried alternating between 2 HDDs. and I have already done the YLOD repair.

[ps3333]

means you failed

[Kazrael21]

Originally Posted by ps3333 means you failed

haha im looking for a solution, i know that somethings wrong

[Kazrael21]

Can anyone help me with this? What can I do to fix this?

[jezcullen09]

what method did you use to do this....

one of the first consoles that i tried repairing using the heat gun method popped some of the solders out of the side its been a while since then but i think its the same light and beep combination that your getting try re-balling them and you might be right...

but then i could be wrong i am just a dairy farmer

[Bigbones87]

Not all "ylod" are actually a hardware failure. The most common cause of ylod is bad flash, and second is hardware failure, according to ps3devwiki. If they are a nor console, then solder a wire from the nor tristate to a ground point on the motherboard, then turn it on. If it turns on and stays on "glod" then the ylod was cause by bad flash. I'm not sure how to check this on a NAND console, since there is no nor tristate. Ps3devwiki....It's got all the answers man.

[MHMProSoft]

Try to dump ps3 nor with a flasher like progskeet & validate it.
if the dump is good then erase & reflash it to ps3.

[Kazrael21]

Okay so I tried turning the systems on again this morning and now they seem to have the YLOD again.

Can someone explain the heat gun process, I have seen so many different methods. I use gilksy1 method. I own a heat gun that can go between 750 - 1000F. I set it to low on 750 and alternate between the boards giving about 15 sec a piece.
I checked some other forums and got chewed out by some "professional" for using a heat gun and at that temp. should i try it again for a little longer?

If someone thinks they know what I should do it would be extremely helpful, im trying to repair ylod systems to help me through school, im a broke pre-med student so I dont have alot of time to do read every single ps3wiki page lol..so i was hoping someone here could walk me through a potential repair process.
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Originally Posted by MHMProSoft Try to dump ps3 nor with a flasher like progskeet & validate it. if the dump is good then erase & reflash it to ps3.

Thats not going to work unless i can find a progskeet chip, which i have been trying to do for about 4 months now, every time i get close to buying one from a seller, they either tell me they are sold out or they stop replying to my messages. and that new chip was told to be released in the first week of this month although i would not be surprised if it took another 3 months. But if you or anyone has a crystal blue v1.1 progskeet let me know and i will purchase it, but every wholeseller no longer has them in stock due to the immenant release of the version 1.2.
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they are both nand models so i might try the waninkoko brick fix, although i would need a hardware flasher which is extremely hard to find, Both these consoles where bought from a guy who found them in a storage unit he had bough,t and when he found them he said they already had the ylod. So both these systems are increadibly old. so i think since the reflow process didnt work this would be my next step unless anyone out there can help me..
DOES anyone have a progskeet v1.1 crystal blue??? and does anyone know if i could re-use the same progskeet chip to repair both systems??

[Mr.Dutch]

i tested my heatgun on an old computer circuit board to see if the solder would melt.
if i could move parts around with a screwdriver then it obviously got hot enough.

the heatgun i used only had 2 positions, low and high, low would not work.

[Kazrael21]

Originally Posted by Mr.Dutch i tested my heatgun on an old computer circuit board to see if the solder would melt. if i could move parts around with a screwdriver then it obviously got hot enough. the heatgun i used only had 2 positions, low and high, low would not work.

SO what was the temp on high, i have 2 temps 750F and 1000F
does anybody know if 15 seconds on 750F is long enough for the YLOD fix?
before i try flashing with a progskeet to see if that might fix these i want to know what a safe time frame is to heat the solder without warping the board.