[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by maharoger Maybe it is. I figured it wouldn't do any more damage =\ Guess I could've been wrong. I'm only wondering how likely the need for reballing is because I don't want to sink a lot of money into the system. Decisions, decisions....

my thoughts reballing is a finicial risk for you, i really doubt it will work afterwards.

you heated the cpu and gpu, they are not even getting power until the ps3 boots, so any faillure there i would expect the ps3 to shut down with blinking red light, or green light of death.

i really think the ps3 should try to boot in the first place.

if your controller is still synced and the ps3 won't start up then it's not your power/eject board. (unplug it to be sure while you start the ps3)

[maharoger]

After I did the reflow the controller is no longer synced, so I guess there really is no way to know if the prongs on the power button card are now defective.

I'm going to crack open the Ps3 again today all the way down to the mobo and see if I visibly damaged or missed anything.

I, like MR.Dutch said, would think that if I damaged the mobo the system would attempt to turn on but then YLOD instantly.

I'll post back when after its cracked open again
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Opened up my ps3 again and dont see any visible damage on the motherboard. I've attached a close up pic of the cpu/gpu and surrounding chips in case you guys see something I don't. Cleaning the chips more now, I'll leave it open for a bit

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by maharoger I've attached a close up pic of the cpu/gpu and surrounding chips in case you guys see something I don't. Cleaning the chips more now, I'll leave it open for a bit

you only heated the cpu/gpu area right?

i think the ps3 should even start without the bluetooth part connected, and you can leave the drive also off for testing.

if i get home, i will look some points up for you to measure, if that dousnt help then well.....we ask @mrc1978 .

[maharoger]

Originally Posted by Mr.Dutch you only heated the cpu/gpu area right? i think the ps3 should even start without the bluetooth part connected, and you can leave the drive also off for testing. if i get home, i will look some points up for you to measure, if that dousnt help then well.....we ask @mrc1978 .

Yea I only heated the cpu/gpu. I've left the system completely apart for now. Hopefully its something I can fix otherwise I'm going to be ps3-less for awhile.

Thanks for your help

[Mr.Dutch]

@maharoger , ok i marked some measure points, these points should get more or less the same reading as marked...
if connect a wire to ground and connect the other side to the blue circle (near the 3,3V marker) to ps3 should turn on.
you have to have the power/eject board disconnected to do this

you don't need to have a drive coonected to try this all, the psudousnt need to be on the prongs either, but the 5 wire cable needs to be connected ofcourse.
also bluetooth board is not needed either.....

good luck, you need it.

measure points

[maharoger]

havn't had the time yet to test this due to work obligations, but i have a question. What is it I need to actually have connected when I try the wire. Like I said, I'm a noob when it comes to toying with hardware, so I'm trying to figure out a step by step for testing this out in my head.

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by maharoger i have a question. What is it I need to actually have connected when I try the wire.

if i'm correct only the 4 wire cable from the psu to the mainboard, and the power/eject board. (else you won't see if anything happens)

if there are any other parts that the ps3 would need, it would still try to turn on, but ylod afterwards.

[maharoger]

Alright, I'll give it a shot this weekend since I won't have time until then. Thanks for your help, and hopefully it works!!!

[maharoger]

So I just tried the wire as you instructed and it didnt work. At first the red light was solid with and without the wire. Upon removing the wire the red light is now completely off even when the psu is connected. I guess it looks like the system is dead =[

[Mr.Dutch]

Originally Posted by maharoger I guess it looks like the system is dead =[

i'm out of ideas, you still measure the voltages at those points?